The Jewish Ghetto of Venice
Hidden among the canals and bridges of the Cannaregio district, the Jewish Ghetto of Venice represents one of the most unusual and fascinating places that every visitor of the Serenissima should definitely explore.
The area – divided into Ghetto Vecchio, Ghetto Nuovo and Ghetto Novissimo – is also easily accessible for Camping Ca’ Savio guests: from the harbour of Punta Sabbioni, located about 4 km from the campsite, you can take the motorboat to Lido (line 14). After about 20 minutes get off at the Lido – S.M.E. stop. From here, continue on line 5.1 or 5.2 for approximately 45 minutes until the “Guglie” stop. A short walk will take you to the Ghetto.
Alternatively, from the harbour of Treporti, also 4 km from the campsite, you can take line 12 to F.te Nove. The journey takes about an hour, and then a 20-minute walk to reach the Ghetto.
If you travel by train to Venice’s Santa Lucia station, the journey is quicker: just cross the Ponte delle Guglie bridge, turn left and, shortly afterwards, the Ghetto is on the right.
Each route offers a unique perspective on the lagoon city and prepares the visitor to discover the rich history of the Jewish Ghetto of Venice.
History of the Venetian Ghetto
The history of the Venetian Ghetto is a story spanning more than five centuries, characterised by suffering, resilience and rebirth.
Established in 1516 by the government of Serenissima, it was the first ghetto in the world, so much so that the term “ghetto” comes from the Venetian dialect. The area intended to house the Jewish community was originally the site of foundries, called in Venetian “geti”, hence the name “ghetto”.
But Jews arrived in Venice long before the establishment of the Ghetto. Their presence in the city is documented as early as the 10th century, but it was after the war of the League of Cambrai (1508-1516) that their numbers increased significantly. So the Venetian Republic, fearing the influence of this growing community, decided to confine them to a specific district of the city.
Life in the Ghetto was governed by strict restrictions: Jews could only leave during the day to go to work, had to wear badges and return before sunset, when the gates were closed. Despite these restrictions, the Jewish community was able to thrive, developing a rich culture and unique traditions.
The Ghetto was freed in 1797 by Napoleon Bonaparte, who pulled down the gates and granted the Jews full citizenship rights. However, freedom was short-lived: when the Austrians returned, many restrictions were reintroduced, albeit in a less rigid form.
As is sadly known, the darkest period in the history of the Ghetto coincided with the Second World War; during this period, the racial laws of 1938 and the Nazi occupation led to the deportation of almost 300 Venetian Jews in the following years, of whom only eight survived.
After the war, the Ghetto was reborn as a Jewish cultural centre, preserving its historical identity while opening up to the rest of the city and the world.
The Synagogues
The Venetian Ghetto is home to five synagogues, each with unique features reflecting the different origins of the Jewish communities in Venice:
- The Scola Grande Tedesca, built between 1528 and 1529, is the oldest. Its sober but elegant interior reflects the style of the Ashkenazi communities of Central Europe.
- The Scola Canton, built between 1531 and 1532, owes its name to the Canton family who financed its construction. It is famous for its richly decorated interior in Baroque style, with gilded stucco and precious marble.
- The Scola Italiana, completed in 1575, was built to serve Jews of Italian origin. Its style reflects the influence of the Italian Renaissance, with an elegant simplicity in its architectural lines.
- The Scola Levantina, built between 1538 and 1561, served the community of Jews from the Ottoman Empire. Its interior features oriental influences, with elaborate decoration and an exotic atmosphere.
- Finally, the Scola Spagnola, built between 1580 and 1584, is the largest and most sumptuous of the five. It served the Sephardic community and is notable for the richness of its decoration and the imposing holy ark in inlaid wood.
These synagogues, hidden inside modest buildings, are real architectural gems, witnesses to the cultural richness of the Venetian Jewish community.
Pawnshops
Pawnshops represented one of the main economic activities allowed to Jews in the Ghetto.
These banks played a fundamental role in the Venetian economy, providing loans at interest rates regulated by the Republic. Jews were, however, obliged to charge lower interest rates than those charged by Christian lenders; but this practice, although born of discriminatory restrictions, ended up making Jewish banks extremely popular among Venetians of all social classes.
The most famous of these is the Banco Rosso, whose building still exists today and can be visited. It is located in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo and still offers a unique insight into the economic life of the time. Its carefully preserved interior allows visitors to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of a 16th century financial institution.
Jewish Museum of Venice
The Jewish Museum of Venice, founded in 1953, is the cultural heart of the modern Ghetto. Located between the Scola Grande Tedesca and the Scola Canton, the museum offers a comprehensive overview of the history and culture of Venice’s Jewish community.
The museum’s collections include precious ritual objects, ancient textiles, manuscripts and historical documents telling the story of daily life, religious traditions and the challenges faced by Venetian Jews over the centuries. Particularly interesting is the section dedicated to ritual jewellery, which includes objects of extraordinary beauty and symbolic significance.
Access to the Venice Ghetto is free. To visit the Jewish Museum and other historical buildings including some synagogues, a €12 ticket is required for adults, with discounts for children, students, seniors and groups. The guided tour, on the other hand, costs 15 euros for adults, and there are also reductions for children, students, seniors and groups. Tickets can be purchased directly at the ticket office in Campo del Ghetto Nuovo or online.
The Jewish Museum is open every day except Saturdays and Jewish holidays.
Curiosities
The Venice Ghetto is a place full of peculiarities and fascinating details.
The Ghetto buildings, for example, are among the tallest in Venice, reaching up to eight storeys. This unique feature is the result of the need to accommodate a growing population in a limited space; the ‘tower-houses’ of the Ghetto are in fact an extraordinary example of architecture adapting to the restrictions imposed.
It is also interesting to note that the Ghetto’s synagogues are not visible from the outside, being located on the upper floors of the buildings. This unusual arrangement arose from the need to avoid drawing attention to the practice of the Jewish religion, which was tolerated but not encouraged at the time. In fact, the sober exterior conceals interiors of extraordinary beauty, creating surprise for those visiting them for the first time.
Another little-known fact is that the Ghetto has had a significant influence on world literature. William Shakespeare, for instance, although he never visited Venice, set part of his “The Merchant of Venice” here, helping to make the Ghetto an iconic place.
Venetian Jewish cuisine
The Ghetto is also a highly recommended place to explore the delights of Venetian Jewish cuisine, a fascinating combination of Jewish culinary traditions and local Venetian ingredients.
Among the specialities not to be missed are Jewish sweets, such as Amman orecchiette, ear-shaped biscuits typical of the Purim holiday, or marzipan, prepared according to ancient recipes. Another emblematic dish is bacalà alla vicentina, a preparation based on salt cod that, although originating in Vicenza, has become an integral part of the Jewish-Venetian culinary tradition.
Many of the restaurants and patisseries in the Ghetto offer the opportunity to sample these and other specialities, allowing visitors to explore Jewish culture through taste.
The Ghetto of Venice represents an important chapter not only in the history of Venice, but of the entire Jewish diaspora. Indeed, its visit offers a rich and immersive experience that provides a better understanding of the complexity and beauty of Venetian Jewish culture.
